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Chat rondom

ch 3 and turn with new color: Now we’re going to work into the chains we just made. Here is a closeup of the past few rows: With new color, hdc across. When it’s a hdc, make 2 border sc around that stitch. When it’s a treble, make 3 stitches around the treble stitch.

Ch 1, sc 1 in same st: Ch3, make the same “cluster” of 7 dcs as in row 9, ch 3, sc in top of shell. Fasten off (if you are done with your blanket) and weave in your ends! I tried to evenly space the bobble rows from each other, hoping that evenly spaced big bands of color would tie the whole thing together nicely. If you would like to follow a specific pattern, I’d recommend going back, working row 8, and continuing from there. That should keep the bobble rows evenly spaced and will also keep your right and wrong sides correct.In new color, hdc in each st across: ch 3 and turn with new color, dc across. I’d recommend choosing a lighter color so that the stitches really show up! I recommend firstly that you crochet around the entire stitch at the end of each row; it’s much easier than trying to slip your hook into the middle of each and every stitch.Each time we make the star stitch pattern, the first row of it needs to be on the right side of our work. When you come across a row ending/beginning in a sc, make 1 border sc around it.It was a close call though, so if you plan on making something larger than a throw I’d definitely get two balls of each color (but you could still just get 1 for the border color). Double, no, TRIPLE check you have the right number so you don’t have to start over later!You can use any colors or indeed any kind of yarn that you would like! Edit: I should also say that because the 2 turning chains count as your first hdc, you should have an odd number of stitches for every row in your blanket (you will have a multiple of 24 1 stitches).The turning chains count as your first stitch of the row (and will for all rows to come unless otherwise specified). You can work over your tails for rows like this so that you don’t have to sew them in later: I like to crochet over the tail for at least 5 inches before snipping the end of it.

At the end of this row, pull your next color through, ch 3, and turn. Then: Don’t leave your ends unwoven til the very end, or you’ll never want to do them! With new color, dc in each st across With new color, hdc in each st across This will be the Catharine wheel pattern.

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Here is the finished pattern for the as-we-go stripey blanket that was written up during not your average crochet’s very first crochet along! (Click here for the PDF version that does not include the step-by-step photos; click here for the PDF version that does include the step-by-step photos.) Please feel free to post any pictures to the Ravelry group page or the new facebook page — I’d love to see!

Make 1 dc in the 1st stitch: Skip 2 sts, work 3 dc in next st: Continue this until the end, making only 2 dc sts in the last st of the row. Make 3 dc in space between the 3 dc clusters in the row below: Repeat this pattern until the end. DO THESE 4 ROWS LOOSELY OR YOUR BLANKET WILL HAVE UNEVEN EDGES.

Make 1 dc in the top of the turning chains of the row below: Change colors. YOU CAN DO THIS BY GOING UP A HOOK SIZE FOR THIS BIT IF YOU PREFER.

Stop at this point: To finish the row, pull your next color through to finish the stitch.